Tip From The Workbench–Extractor Cuts

kenBrooksby Ken Brooks
AGI Instructor and Master Gunsmith

In this video AGI Instructor and Master Gunsmith Ken Brooks answers a question from a Gun Club of America member about extractor cuts in barrels. Ken shows you a messed up extractor cut and then takes you through the procedure to clean it up and restore it one step at a time. Before it’s over you will gain more insight into these cuts and know the tools and techniques you can use to restore them.


8 Responses to Tip From The Workbench–Extractor Cuts

  1. Ken, thanks for the added info. U did a great job, I always learn allot from your instructions. Could you cover a total disassembly/reassembly on a S&W model 915. I hadn’t seen one before. My friend brought me one to look at & it needs to torn down & completely cleaned, it also has a little rust on some of the working parts that I can see. I’m in the Glock section of the AGI Gunsmithing Master Course. I’ve noticed it comes apart some what different& didn’t want cause any problems. So I thought I’d ask you about it. Thanks for any help you can give me.

  2. Ken, as always I enjoyed this video, but I was left wondering what end result was achieved by causing the exacter channel radius to mirror that of the barrel? If the extractor itself is flat, as you stated, carving out the corners doesn’t expose any more extractor surface, unless the extractor is also radiused, no?

  3. I miss You and Bob making jokes at each other in class.
    Hands on classes rock!!

    Thanks for all your great teaching!

    Travis
    From Tulsa Ok

  4. I’d like to preface this by saying that I haven’t seen a single 22rf extractor. I know best my Colt(clone) 1911, and the extractor on it is pretty straight across, at least as far as I can see. I haven’t actually examined it under a good (4x or better) magnifier, but it appeared to be straight across. If it is arched, please inform me.

    I would think that, if the extractor’s got a straight across face, what you showed me would be a waste of time. Since, with something as large as that extractor slot, compared to the diameter of a twenty-two shell casing, making the mating surfaces of the extractor arched surfaces would be definitely the best way to go, I would imagine that all the good to best-quality guns would have that sort of an extractor.

    On the other hand, would every extractor have those contours? I would think that determining that would be one of your first steps.

    Now, I didn’t see you setting the barrel shoulder back, which would be absolutely essential and perhaps a distraction from your current lesson’s aims.

    Moving on. Would the extractor groove have a straight line or a curved line? To be more clear, would the original extractor groove have been made by a round cutter just moving inwards a set distance or would they have tilted the barrel and ran the cutter straight through. I can see advantages for either. If you were doing, say ten barrels at once, you could mount the ten in a fixture and then move the cutter along a horizontal pathway that would cut slots in all ten barrels sequentially in one operation. If you were doing one at a time, then the cutter could simply go down and the come up, leaving a arc-shaped cut behind. The profile of the slot in one direction would be determined by the shape of the cutting tool, but in the other, by the tool pathway. I hope that is clear.

    In any case, knowing the profile of the cut, in both directions would be essential to the re-cutting of the slot. After all, wouldn’t the slot need to have both depth and profile properly reproduced?

    If not done correctly, the extractor wouldn’t fit. Or would it? It would depend on the shape of the extractor, I’m sure.

    I know that crashing the old extractor into the new slot wouldn’t Be A Good Thing.

  5. On most .22 autos (and some others as well) there is abit of up and down slop/play to the bolt. As such when the extractor is up or down the area of the extractor cut can keep the extractor further away from the case rim, or only allow the extractor to “just” catch the edge of the case. This modification just gives the extractor abit more room to move closer to the case.

    • That would make it worth the effort, in the cases where the extractor claw is just a straight-across surface. so, it would be useful to add that little bit of work, no matter what.

      Would a somewhat tighter extractor slot be of any benefit as far as eliminating some of that slop? Or would that mean that the bolt would batter the extractor?

      I hope that my scenarios at least made some sense.

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