The Henry Survival Rifle–A Recommended Gunsmithinging Project PART 1

Delesoyby Dana Delesoy
Guns and Gunsmiths Contributor

In my early years as a firearms owner, the first two guns I owned were a shotgun and a rifle. The next gun on my wish list was a light-weight, backpackable, survival type rifle chambered in .22 Long Rifle. Being an avid shopper at Cabela’s (via the internet), I looked at their offerings and noticed a Henry US Survival Rifle that fit all of my requirements, so I purchased it. This gun has been manufactured for years as the AR 7 by several manufacturers. Overall it has proved quite reliable straight from the box. Personally, I think it’s a neat little piece and really like it for what it is.

The components of the gun.

Recently I realized the Henry US Survival chamber has an undesirable factory design I refer to as “unsupported case area” (or unsupported chamber area). It is located at approximately the 3 o’clock area of the chamber (the same area as the extractor groove/cut on the barrel). The unsupported case area is .031″ (1/32″) depth and .125″ (1/8″) width (same width as extractor groove on the barrel). I say “factory design” because every Henry US Survival chamber I’ve seen photos of on the internet show they all have the same design, plus a friend has the same gun and it has exactly the same unsupported chamber area.

Does the unsupported case area of the chamber pose a problem? Potentially yes, if not already. Why? Like most cartridge cases, .22 rimfire cases are made of the relatively soft metal brass. When cartridges are fired, pressures occur inside the cartridge case which are forceful enough to expand brass. Since the chamber surrounds the cartridge case, it is the chamber that limits the amount of brass expansion in both diameter and length. The unsupported case area of the chamber provides an avenue for the brass to continue expansion. This has the potential for the brass to expand to the point of bulging, or rupturing, depending on both the size of the area and the chamber pressure of the particular cartridge.

Bulged and ruptured cartridge cases are analogous to the inflation of a balloon. Inflation (from gases) induces pressures within the balloon which cause it to expand. The larger the balloon expands the thinner its material becomes. If there’s nothing supporting the balloon’s material (unsupported balloon) to limit its expansion and pressures exceed the material’s expansion capacity, the balloon will burst. Everything has its limits and, like the balloon, brass is no exception.

Bulged and Ruptured Cases

Because the unsupported case area is in the same location the extractor hook rests during battery, a bulge forming in the same area can prevent the extractor’s hook from being able to get enough purchase on the case rim to hold it on the breech face until the ejector hits it.

In the event of a case rupture, a pressure leak occurs that is forceful enough to bend or break the extractor. A rupture is a worst-case scenario because gasses and/or fragments (brass, extractor material) can travel, and DO, in the direction of the shooter (or bystanders) and can cause injury. This is one reason we as shooters (and bystanders) should wear appropriate eye protection at all times when guns are going off around us.

When a bulge has formed and pressures subside, the bulge may make the case stick in the chamber and hard to extract in a locked breech gun. In this situation, the extractor’s hook may tear through the case rim while trying to extract the stuck case, especially if the hook has good, positive engagement on the case rim and/or if the hook is sharp.

It can also keep the case from extracting itself in a blowback operated gun like the Henry (AR 7). In this case, when a spent cartridge case sticks in the chamber, the rearward expansion of the base of the case can impart enough energy to the bolt to move it rearward far enough to pick up the rim of the next round in the magazine and push its nose into the case still stuck in the chamber. Obviously this results in a jam. In shooters’ terms, we refer to this as “a bad thing”.

For clarification of the terminology I use throughout the remainder of this article please refer to the pictures, in particular “Chamber-end view of Factory Barrel”.

Another area of concern

At the 6 o’clock area of the chamber the factory put what I consider an over-chamfer. The intention here is to provide a feed ramp to assist cartridges (in this case round nose lead bullets) in transitioning into the chamber. There’s no doubt an edge (particularly a sharp edge) at this area of the chamber can interfere with the feeding of cartridges into the chamber but the over-chamfer designed into this chamber has induced a fair bit of unsupported case area. The picture “Chamber-end view of Factory Barrel” above illustrates the over-chamfer.

The oval-shape of the over-chamfer spans from approximately the seven o’clock area of the chamber’s edge to the five o’clock area. The oval tapers into the chamber (like a funnel’s taper) approximately .020″ in depth. The oval and the taper are the actual unsupported area that has been created in the chamber.

A further look into the chamber’s state

Although my gun has not experienced case bulges or ruptures, I explained its situation (and my concerns) to Master Gunsmith Ken Brooks. He stated that given the amount of unsupported case area he’s surprised the gun hasn’t experienced any bulged or ruptured cases. I asked Ken if the unsupported area should be removed and Ken categorically answered “Yes, it should be fixed.” Ken is “An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure” type of person, and rightfully so.

I asked Ken how he would proceed with the fix. He said the process is simple for this gun, and kindly explained to file the barrel until the unsupported case area is removed then square the barrel to the bolt. This led to another question for Ken. I asked: “As the unsupported case area is removed the chamber is proportionately shortened. How much can the chamber be shortened before it becomes too short and mandates a re-chambering? How do I discern this?”.

Ken’s answer was (as paraphrased by me); “Removing .031″ is not a huge amount. To check if the chamber does or doesn’t need re-chambering, point the muzzle to the ground and drop a brand new cartridge into the chamber. If the cartridge enters all the way on its own, the chamber is long enough. If the chamber is shortened too much, the cartridge won’t fully enter on its own and a kiss with a chamber reamer is necessary.”

Thinking through the repair

When the gun is in battery, the front of the bolt stops against the chamber end of the barrel. This means that however much the chamber end of the barrel is shortened, the bolt will move equally forward. Filing .031″ off the chamber end of the barrel allows the bolt to move .031″ further forward. Will this pose problems for anything? Well, let’s see . . .

When the barrel is removed from the receiver the bolt moves forward, pushed by the recoil springs, until the operating handle contacts the receiver and stops further bolt travel. This is why the operating handle must be removed from the bolt in order to remove the bolt from the receiver. When the barrel is securely fastened to the receiver, the bolt is shoved back and the operating handle is .120″ from the front of the ejection slot. Simple math indicates that shortening the chamber end of the barrel .031″ leaves .089″ (.120″ minus .031″ = .089″) clearance between the operating handle and the receiver. Operating handle clearance is not an issue with .031″ shortening of the barrel’s breech end.

My theory regarding the repair

Since my gun isn’t bulging nor rupturing cases with the .031″ unsupported case area it already has, any reduction is better than where it’s at now. I do not have a .22 Long Rifle chambering reamer so I’ll play on the conservative side of the situation and set out to shorten the chamber .015″ rather than removing the entire .031″.

Supplies for the job

This is not a machining project by any means. The work will be performed mainly with hand tools. For those with access to and who are adept with machining equipment, this project should be easy. A flat file will be used for the bulk of removal of metal. A sanding block will be used to remove scratches left from filing. A Foredom tool with a sanding and polishing mandrel will be used to do the finishing touches.

Checking for chamber smoothness

The first step I recommend is to determine if the gun’s chamber is rough or smooth because a rough chamber can provide a false reading when checking for cartridge seating depth following the repair process.

Check chamber smoothness by pointing the muzzle vertical to the ground and drop a new, unfired cartridge into the chamber. The chamber is smooth enough if cartridges can freely slip into and fully seat into the chamber via gravity and the cartridge should freely fall out of the chamber when the muzzle is pointed straight up. If the chamber is rough the cartridge will not freely drop in or out of the chamber under the force of gravity. A smooth chamber is always a benefit to a gun anyhow.

Polishing the Chamber

The Henry’s barrel removes/installs easily, which makes the task of polishing the chamber quick and easy. The supplies and equipment I use for polishing is 400 grit silicon carbide sandpaper, spring steel stock for the mandrel (the part the sandpaper wraps around) and a Foredom Tool.

The sandpaper is taped to one end of the mandrel and the other end of the mandrel inserted into a rotary tool. I wrap the sandpaper the opposite direction the mandrel spins so it doesn’t unravel as it spins in the chamber and it ensures proper polishing action.

The sandpaper needs to be a length that when wrapped around the mandrel is large enough in diameter to fit slightly snug when inserted into the chamber. The photo “Mandrel and sandpaper used to polish the chamber” shows the first length of sandpaper was cut too short (2 1/8″) thus not being large enough in diameter to effectively polish the chamber. I had to add (by taping) another length (1 1/2″) to the short length.

The sandpaper needs to be approximately 3 1/2″ in length, based on the .068″ diameter mandrel I use. A 1/8” dowel with a 5/8” slit in the end will work as well. Since this gun is chambered for .22 Long Rifle I cut the width of sandpaper the same length as a .22 Long Rifle case (5/8″ or .610″) or slightly longer (3/4″ or .750″). In any event, the sandpaper width is the same or slightly longer than the cartridge CASE length.

Avoid sanding the chamber throat and rifling while polishing the chamber! Having the sandpaper a similar length as a .22 long rifle case will serve as a depth indicator. If you can’t see the sandpaper during polishing you have inserted the mandrel too far and will be polishing the rifling. Wrap the sandpaper snugly around the mandrel and insert it into the chamber. While keeping the mandrel in line with the bore, spin the mandrel and slightly move it in and out of the chamber while keeping an eye on the depth indicator.

The process only takes a few seconds, so go slow and check often. You don’t want to enlarge the chamber diameter nor oval the chamber. When a cartridge will freely drop in or out of the chamber the job is done.

Filing process

A bevel of approximately .040″ depth surrounds the outside of the breech end of the barrel. This gives you a good reference for seeing how filing is progressing. I clamped the barrel in a vice with padded (rubber or wood) jaws and leveled the surface to be filed (end of the barrel).

Plug the chamber with a Q-tip or cleaning patch to keep it and the bore free of excess filings. I used the largest width flat file I had on hand (.850″) which is slightly narrower than the area to be filed. The end of barrel is .900″ in diameter. A file slightly wider than .900″ would make the task quicker and easier to perform.

Look for Part 2 of this article Next Week!

29 Responses to The Henry Survival Rifle–A Recommended Gunsmithinging Project PART 1

  1. Hi, it’s me Dana, the author of this article.

    For those unfamiliar with the Henry US Survival (AR7) rifle I thought maybe I should clarify that my gun came with two magazines and not three. In the second photo “The components of the gun” there are three mags shown because I purchased an extra one since the receiver can be stowed in its built-in compartment in the butt-stock with a magazine in it. The other two mags of course have compartments for them built into the butt-stock.

    Hope you all like the article and I look forward to your comments here.


    • Nice clear writing style. I remember years ago when the Air force issued these to pilots. Better than a pistol, relatively quiet and capable of killing small game and a man with proper shot placement. Also I believe a box of 50 could be carried in the buttstock very simple system.

      • Hi William,

        Glad you find the writing style clear, thanks for the compliment! I try my best. I learned from the editors to go over the article several times before submitting it to them.

        It’s a very long process of making notes of the repair process I followed along the way, taking photos and trying to get the camera steady enough and the lighting good enough so that photos are brilliant (harder to do for close-up shots). Figuring out what captions and arrows (etc) are needed to clearly illustrate and explain the photo’s conveyance and then getting all the captions and arrows to fit structured and clearly into the photos are a whole other piece of work. There’s a bit more to it also.

        For me it takes a very LONG time from start to completed product for the editor’s review. I do all this because I know what it is like to read something that doesn’t quite say it clearly enough to understand, nor quite illustrate clearly and concisely what the author is trying to portray. Personally I get very frustrated if that is the case with an article or video.

        In fact when I first started out writing a friend told me that I should write/structure my articles and make my photos (and captions, etc) the way I would like to see it in an article, so that’s what I strive to do because it seems to work well for the audience.

        I do all this for people like you – the readers. I am a reader too. My sole intention is to provide the readers with correct, clear and concise info in hopes that it helps at least someone out there. The more my articles help the audience, the better I have done my part. The process of all this is great for me too! It’s a win/win situation in which is always worth the effort!

        I read a quote once many years ago when I was in my early twenties. I believe it is from Steven Covey. It goes like this:

        To Learn: Read.
        To Know: Write.
        To Master: Teach

        Always good to see your comments here on G&G. Keep up the good work William.


      • Hi William,

        Yes some air forces did use the AR7. I seen photos on the internet of a really cool build the Israeli’s did for the AR7 but not sure if they still have them or use them. They removed the factory stock altogether and installed a retractable butt stock that fastened right onto the bottom rear of the receiver where the factory stock bolt fastened to. I really, really like that design, although it completely removed the features of the factory stock. Their design kept the gun fully assembled, compact and fully ready, in which I think is really neat! Would love to have that option for mine!

        I did see a photo on the internet when I was writing this article that someone managed to fit in 22 or 23 cartridges into the compartment slots in the factory butt stock. I just checked my gun to see if extra ammo would fit into the many compartment slots in the butt stock but only 5 of them were big enough. That makes it 8 rounds in each of the three mags plus the five I just now discovered would fit in the slots, which makes 29 total.

        Thanks for pointing this out as I never did try this out until your comment reminded me now.


        • And don’t forget that James Bond “shot” one in From Russia with Love. Of course it was modified by Q for his specific secret agent skills.

          In his case, of course, it would be designated an AR-007.
          Bond in action with his ar-007

          • Hi Gary!
            Yes, that’s correct! I seen that pic also while I was surfing the net for AR7’s during writing the article.
            I love your name for his AR7: the “AR-007”! VERY clever Gary!
            Good to hear from you!
            Thanks for posting the info!

          • As I remember it was a .25ACP. Goes to shoe what Mr Fleming knew about firearms. Also Bond’s first handgun was a .25 Beretta, then he got the PPK in 7.62 (32 ACP).

    • Hey Dan,

      I got frozen in the snow up here last month and just managed to dig myself out yesterday, lol.

      Thanks for making the time to read my lengthy project article. I had very much fun tinkering away with this hobby rifle project.

      Taking photos, making notes of the repair process along the way then putting it all together into an article was really good for my self-education/experience in writing and all.

      Good to hear from you, and as always thank-you for the kind words! Always good to see your content here on G&G as well and am looking forward to more!


  2. Hey Dana,

    Another Great Article. Love the way you add all the details to your articles. Keep up the Good work.

    Thank you

    Tony Carrier

  3. I have the Henry version of the survival rifle. Up to this point what I was concerned with is the trigger. It absolutely sucks. I took the gun apart to try to figure out how to improve it and could not. I have the same complaint with the Beretta ARX 160. Took it apart also and can’t figure out a good correction also. Part of the problem is the trigger section is difficult to remove and work on with respect to both guns. I talked to Beretta USA and Brownells technicians and no one has a suggestion on how to improve this terrible trigger. I have not talked to Henry on how to improve the terrible trigger on the AR 7. Any ideas on how to improve the terrible trigger on either or both guns would be greatly appreciated.

    • Additional comment. I have the majority of the AGI videos including the ones on trigger jobs. I have done trigger jobs on AR’s, AK’s, S&W J fram’s, etc. So I am not a newbie on working on guns. I also went to the gunsmithing school at Trinidad Co. for two summers after I retired. I have a nice shop including a mill and a lath. Thanks.
      Ron H.

    • Thanks for the comments Ron.

      A couple years ago I too had taken the Henry AR7 trigger plate off to look at the internals, in particular to improve the “stiff” trigger, if you will. I did not go any farther because the internals are certainly a bit of a trick, so I put that repair aspect to rest since then.

      I do have AGI’s Henry AR7 disassembly/reassembly video by Ken Brooks and also it is covered by Bob Dunlap in AGI’s pro-course under the name Charter AR7. Don’t recall if they mention anything about the trigger system though. Also found out it’s covered in the GCA’s issue #131 disassembly/reassembly segment by Ken Brooks.

      You have stimulated me to once again look at the internals very soon once I have reviewed these wonderful AGI instructional videos.

      Will keep you informed as I find out what the remedy(s) is(are).


  4. I have found Anthony Imperato to be very approachable. He answers his own e-mail, if only with a short reply. I’d recommend that Dana that you send him your complete article and ask that his engineers take a look at it for possible future improvements.

    I’d love to see them resurrect the AR-7 pistol which was the same unit with a shorter barrel. Unfortunately, I don’t think Henry wants to compete in the pistol market. Perhaps he cannot bring a pistol version in any cheaper than the numerous small .22’s out there for outdoors men/women of all sorts.

    Thanks for the well written article. Great job!

    • Hi JDC,

      I’m not quite clear as of yet who Anthony Imperato is (I’m guessing someone at Henry Arms) but I will look into this. I think you have a great idea and it would be respectful to let Henry know their “design flaw(s)” (if you will) on the breach/chamber end of their factory barrels. Thanks for suggesting this! Good job with generating this idea. I will certainly give you credit to him for your suggestion here.

      Thanks for reading, thanks for the encouraging and kind comments and thanks again for you input and suggestions JDC!

  5. Hey Dana, I’m gonna give this project a go. As soon as I get My Marlin 336 project finished. My AR-7 has had problems since I’ve owned it and I just haven’t got around to it. Seems odd that I have time to do all of My customer’s work!

  6. Thanks for the great article Dana. I’m going to look into doing your mods, I do have to say that is a 22lr not a 460 Weatherby. I’ve fired thousands of rounds through 1 Armalite AR7 and 2 Charter Arms AR7’s and never saw any bulged cases and never had a malfunction as long as I kept them clean.

    • Hi Seth,
      Thanks a bunch for the compliment! Always good to hear!

      That’s GREAT to hear you are planning on doing the chamber mod’s to the factory AR7 barrel(s). As you already know even though you’ve had no issues with bulged or ruptured cases (and the consequences thereof – ie. failure to extract, extractor damage, injury, etc) it’s always good if an “extra cautionary” repair can easily be done, especially without any significant costs of tools, parts, etc. If you are like me and do not have a .22lr chambering reamer then I recommend removing half (even less to be on the safer side) of the chamber’s unsupported case area.

      Very good to also hear your feedback that you have not had any issues with any of your three AR7’s – that’s always a GREAT thing! From brand new I have had a few malfunctions on mine and so has my friend, but that is another topic. Nothing major for malfunctions, just the usual things that can occur/exist in factory guns.

      Thanks again Seth for everything here. Hope you like part 2 coming next week.

  7. Dana,

    Finally, someone showing repairs on the AR7 and actually looking at the trigger. I thought about taking either the AGI gunsmithing courses or attending a brick and mortar school (just a matter of budget). I am a retired Police Officer and armorer, and have worked on many pistols, rifles, and shotguns. Now that I’m retired, I have extra time to disassemble my AR7 and take a look at the trigger.

    I’ve only done a few trigger jobs so it will be a learning experience. Looking forward to Part 2 on the AR-7.

    Kamikaze Bob

    • Hi Bob,

      Thanks for reading and thanks for the comments!

      If you are particularly interested in starting out with the AR7 has a really great “Disassembly/Reassembly of the AR-7 Survival Rifle” DVD (DVD #7264) performed by Master Gunsmith Ken Brooks. It is applicable to all models: Armalite, Charter and Henry. Just letting you know in case you did not know about it already and needed some additional info on the Dis/Re aspect of this neat little gun. The DVD won’t cover the trigger job aspect but it will get you into the heart of the gun for when you decide to take on the trigger work.

      I do not think that AGI has an amorer’s course for the AR-7 but the Charter Arms AR-7 is covered more in depth in AGI’s Pro-Course. I’m trying to recall if anything is said/covered about performing a trigger job in that section, but as you may know AGI has awesome trigger job courses in which will teach you most everything you need to know.

      I am an AGI student and have their full Professional Gunsmithing package (with tools, trigger job courses, etc and all the other stuff that comes with it in the package) and I have completed the full pro-course section (and trigger job sections, etc.) a couple years ago. Just by seeing the trigger system and the parts thereof in the gun I already know what needs to be done to improve the trigger system but I am not sure exactly what the improv’s will reward as far as pull weight, engagement, etc. In any case the trigger will improve somewhat no doubt, so long as I do my part properly.

      Thanks again for taking the time to read and comment. Much appreciated Sir! Hope you enjoy Part 2!


      • Dana,
        When is Part 2 being posted?

        Yes, I know about the DVD, but I think the AR7 disassembly is not terribly difficult; just the trigger job, mods, and common repairs. Also, I’m sure there are tips & tricks to make the armoring less frustrating. I have the Henry version (still new and unfired).

        One of the most challenging pistols I’ve had to armor and repair was the Wildey. There are no procedures, videos, or armoring manuals out there, and the Owner’s Manual didn’t help. So, I created one. I sent a copy to the head tech at USA Firearms (the new Wildey) and I was advised that he liked it. It’s an Armoring the Wildey “for Dummys” sort of manual. I included tips & tricks within the steps. Just have to add the pics (coming later).


        • Good day Bob.

          Part 2 is coming next week.

          I figured the chances were you knew about AGI’s AR7 DVD’s. I hear ya there.

          I’m impressed with how you tackled “the unknown” – the Wildey. Having nothing to go on, other than using one’s independent reasoning mind, makes a project a real “character builder” (if you will).

          I’ve had one of those “unknown” guns a little while back and decided one day to “bite the bullet” and dive into the unknown, before even first firing it. I bought it from new and it had no manual and no info for it anywhere whatsoever. The trigger was negative (gritty too), the safety pushed out of the gun when putting it “off-safe” and all the other moving internal parts were roughly machined and gritty. It was my gun anyhow, in which made my decision to “go in blind” more at ease.

          Weeks later after all my repairs were done I discovered in a schematic in a parts book (Numrich) that my gun (a Chinese manufactured gun) was almost identical to another gun (an American manufactured gun). The internals in the receiver were identical except for the safety. From that experience I learned to try and find any info on a similar designed “known gun” that could be used for the “unknown” gun.

          Really awesome that you created a manual for the Wildey and were respectful to send it to the manufacturer! I hope they showed some appreciation to you for that. Good gunsmithing Bob!

          Thanks for your postings.

          • Aside from my regular guns, I collect Bullpup rifles, 50 cal/big bore pistols, LAR Grizzly, Wildey, AMT Automag V 50, and Auto Mag pistols. In 2005, I even had a custom TC pistol made in 600 Nitro.

            Numrich is one of the few sites where I can find “some” parts for these rare pistols. I’ve also had some “OOS/no longer available” parts manufactured (machined).

            However, I caution on buying parts from them “verbatim”. I discovered some of the parts listed are incorrect, advised them of it, but the incorrect info is still on the website. So, my advise is to do the research and ask questions before buying.

            Kamikaze Bob

    • Hey there Robert!

      WOW! Been a long time since hearing from you!
      I still see your articles here and always enjoy reading them through.

      And WOW!, I actually have a firearm in my small, personal collection that you don’t have??!! What are the odds of that, ‘eh?!

      I think you would like owning an AR-7. You must have handled one or shot one before?? They are really neat little guns. Sooooo light and fairly compact, easy to deploy and easy to maintain. I’m happy I purchased mine when I did a few years back because the prices have risen significantly (in Canada anyhow).

      You may recall that about 2+ years ago during yours and Ken’s student webcasts I had sent several questions to Ken regarding this exact same gun and it’s unsupported case design on it’s barrel. I can understand if you don’t recall because I did ask MANY questions over the show’s tenure.

      I miss those webcasts as it was always very entertaining, educational and made every second Friday evening a good one. Miss having beer and watching the show.

      Anyhow, great to hear from you again. Thanks for reading and thanks for the compliments. It’s been a long while and I hope all is well with you American friend. Looking forward to interacting with you again.

      Dana in Canada

      • Thanks, Dana! I do remember the questions. Your participation is always welcomed. Yeah, Ken and I loved doing the Webcasts. Hopefully we can start doing them again.
        The AR-7 is on my wish list, I have fired several of them over the years and am quite fond of them. Ken and I filmed a D&R course for the AR-7 a number of years ago.
        Great to hear from you and look forward to reading more of your articles!


  8. my brother had an AR-7 about 50 years ago. I had it out in the woods one day, and had a failure to feed. The cartridge got stuck half way between the magazine and the chamber. Being used to an M-1, I gave the bolt handle a shot with my hand, and the shell went off. I got stung by brass, but the bullet went about 6″ down the barrel. I carefully pulled a bullet from another cartridge, and inserted the primed, powdered shell into the chamber. It fired with a dull pop, but the bullet came out of the barrel.
    By the way, a stock modification or change may defeat one of the features of the rifle- it’s supposed to float.

  9. Hi Bill,

    WOW! What an interesting post from you! Your post is a really valuable learning lesson for rimfire .22 cartridges – I really appreciate that!

    Actually this reminds me of when I was talking to a friend a while back. He was saying that it’s a bad idea cycling live rounds of .22 rimfire cartridges to test repairs inside the home or shop. Even if you know there is enough headspace that the case rim would not get crushed by the bolt face when the bolt was closed and fully locked up into battery, and even though the firing pin and extractor was also removed for more precaution he said that an unfired/live round (unfired cartridge) being extracted from the chamber in theory could potentially get detonated by rim contacting the ejector during ejection. I never thought about that one but it makes sense to me.

    That’s another reason why if a misfire occurs in a .22 rimfire cartridge gun the operator should keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction before ejecting the misfired cartridge. The firing pin may have hit an area in the case rim that the priming compound was missing in that area and therefor a miss fire occurred. Rapid ejection of the unspent cartridge could have enough force/inertia for the ejector to detonate the unspent cartridge during ejection. Always good to be cautious and safe.

    Yes – mods to the stock could defeat the purpose of the stowed rifle to float. If that feature is important to the owner then for sure leave the stock “stock”. I’ve read comments on the internet that some say if the magazines are fully loaded with ammo and stowed with the rest of the rifle in the stock (especially more so if there are not two but three loaded mags) then it is too heavy to float. I never tried floating the gun but someday I should since it is a feature of the gun. Thanks for bringing this up.

    Again, great comment! Thanks for posting. Much appreciated Sir.