This topic contains 13 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by  Gene Groebner 1 year, 8 months ago.

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    • This topic was modified 5 years, 2 months ago by  admin.

    Ron Burke

    Looking for assistance…have a S&W 32-20 that will not rotate the cylinder. Have completely disassembled the revolver, and cannot locate a spring or other devise that would drive the lever into action. What am I missing?
    Can send photos if requested. Have checked the see.#, and mfg. Date is in the 1930s.
    Thank you for your consideration.


    Dean Cacciavillano

    I have a Winchester 94 (pre 64) that I am cleaning for a friend, it has not been used in almost 35 years. It function and test fired good, it needs to taken down completely to be thoroughly cleaned and lubed. Someone has for whatever reason tried to remove or tighten the mainspring screw with a driver to big for the screw and pinned the screw to the tang. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to remove the burrs so the screw can be removed without damage to the tang. I have tried tap the edges back with no luck. Thanks Dean C.



    Hi Ron. About your question: Did you manage to get an answer and fix your revolver? If not, do you have the AGI pistolsmithing course? If not, I will watch for your reply here as I have a couple of suggestions for your guns situation. Have a good day.



    ray toma

    Have a Glock 17 and can’t get the barrel off to clean it. I empty it and pull the trigger and than try pull the slide back around .12 inches and release it, but the barrel won’t come off. It has in the past, am I forgetting something?


    Dan McGauley

    I have, and need trigger mechanism/parts for, a CZ 700. I have contacted CZ-USA… no help whatsoever, probably will never purchase another CZ product. Can anyone provide information on how to get parts for the CZ 700?
    Thank you.



    Paul Deaville

    I have been fascinated by the Sharps 44-70 and would love to build one from scratch. I have Walter Mueller’s book and have details of the Ruger #1 rifle. One difference is I want to build it in a modern magnum cartridge like the .338 Win mag. I would appreciate pros & cons, tips, and pit falls.
    Thanks, Paul



    Forum Rule #6:

    Post your questions in the appropriate category. Start a new thread if needed. Don’t be surprised that nobody answers your gun questions in a thread about forum rules.




    OK this is my first time writing to a forum so please take it easy on me! Thanks
    So my question is just how important is checking head space when you are building an AR type build? I’m in the middle of a 6.5 Grendle build and I purchased a barrel from a company on line. I have purchased all my parts from different sources but the parts according to the companies that I got the parts from are all to spec. Now when I checked the head space the GO gauge check passed, but when I checked the NO-GO gauge the bolt closed on it which according to what I have read is a failure. Now when I called the company I purchased the barrel from they informed my that it really doesn’t matter that the gauges don’t really mean that it is a failure and just go ahead and clean the bore really good and go ahead and fire it.?????! So as you can see I really have some reservation on just what to do at this point. So could someone out there please sent me straight and let me know what would you do if this was your build.
    THanks for your help!




    This is the thread for forum rules, you should start a new thread and not reply to this one.

    That said, a go and no-go gauge set also has a third gauge, a field gauge. If it closes on a no-go but not a field gauge, it is still considered safe to shoot. Take a look at this reference:

    Brownell’s Head Space Gauges and How to Use Them

    That said, it’s more the exact head space most gunsmiths are concerned with. Take an unfired (live) commercial round and chamber it. I assume it will chamber fine and the bolt will close, so extract it and put a piece of masking tape on the back, then chamber it and close the bolt again. Keep doing this until the bolt won’t close. Peel off the tape and measure the thickness with a set of calipers or micrometer and that’s your head space. Remove the firing pin if you’re worried about it firing (I usually am). I don’t remember what max head space for 6.5 Grendel is, but I certainly wouldn’t want it more than .010-.012 at any rate. I’d prefer .000-.002, but I don’t think I’ve ever seen any AR with head space that good.

    Now, head space gauges may or may not actually work depending on your build. If you have a matched barrel and bolt, you should be fine. If you used a standard 5.56 bolt, you will have issues. As in “don’t do this” issues. If the barrel is from one manufacturer and the bolt from another 6.5 Grendel manufacturer, you may not have correct head space.

    I don’t think there are a lot of 6.5 Grendel barrel/bolt makers for AR’s and if the manufacturer (not the retailer) says it’s fine, I’d tend to believe them. If you got it from a place like Midway, you might want to contact the manufacturer and ask the same thing you asked the vendor. It would help if you had the actual head space measurement to give them.

    Good luck.



    Rick Hake

    I have a 30-30 Winchester classic lever action that I had stored in a hard plastic case. It had been in the closet of my travel trailer parked in the back yard. When I opened the case after a year I was horrified to see rust spots all over this rifle. When I took it to a local gunsmith he told me I might as well buy a new one because the cost of fixing it would not be worth it. Is there nothing I can do to salvage this rifle. I am on social security and don’t have much money to spend to repair it let alone buy another one. I accept the fact that this is my fault, but I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction that I can do this job. My one advantage is I have a lot of time. Thanks for any help in advance.


    Rick Hake

    Sorry, I see this is the wrong thread. I am moving it to gunsmithing.


    Gene Groebner

    I have a Springfield 107A, no serial #, that the spring on the trigger/hammer has come disengaged. I think the problem is that the pin in the spring is not being held in place at the rear of the action by the stud that the stock bolt screws into. As I was trying to replace it the pin would pass through the hole, so that it wouldn’t be pinned into the pivot block between the spring and the trigger/hammer. Also, what is the best way to compress the spring to get it in place?

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